To do this we heat treat bullets from an alloy of lead, tin, antimony and arsenic. If you have a mold that produces a bullet with a base designed for gas checks, can you use ANY brand of gas checks? Interestingly enough the bullets don't gas cut either even with only a paper seal between the bullet and the bore.
Spill 160 degree water on yourself you're headed for the burn ward. Lead is also an efficient conductor. It isn't just velocity that causes leading. You can only gas check a bullet if it is designed to wear one. Standard Newest Votes.
Page 1 of 2 1 2 Last Jump to page: As for the plastic, I get mine from small-parts. For a bullet of 20 BHN it takes over 38,000 psi to start to obturate the bullet and seal the bore. Again it was a cost thing - I was working my way through college and funds were very limited. Others say they do, and most places that sell bullets like these always put gas checks on them. Bullet composition and lube make a lot of difference also.
If this is not your normal plinker load, and you are only preparing for a single moose hunt, then it is easier to deal with the leading than work up a new load and buy a new mould.
Great spirits have always found violent opposition from mediocre minds. Is there a 405 grain bullet mold out there that takes a gas check, that will work in the Marlin lever action? I just wanted some normal looking gas checked moulds. So when you apply heat to one part of a bullet it dissipates that heat throughout the rest of the bullet. The gas check seals at much lower pressure and allows the use of this extra hard bullet at less than max pressure.
The search continues for the both of us. Personally, I've got a long way to go before I give direction from my own experiences. You're a good and curious student, Brian. Teach me...
The greatest invention in the history of man is beer.